I pulled the factory wires out of the conduit that runs along the hitch and spliced them there, then taped them up to keep out salt and moisture. So you're connecting yellow to reverse, and red to the factory yellow wire. NOTE that the Pollak harness uses a yellow wire for the reverse circuit, and a red wire for the right brake lamps. Now all I had left was to splice into the factory trailer lighting wires. You can see my green ground wire two photos above screwed into the sheet metal. The easy solution would be to ground it to the chassis near the hitch, but I figured I might as well ground it inside the car to avoid issues with salt and corrosion. I trust the factory ground is good for the lighting circuits it was intended to power, but not for the additional load of electric trailer brakes. I don't like suitcase connectors, but there wasn't much else I could do without destroying the conduit. Pulled the upper trim panel and finally found the green-brown wire in the conduit between the body and tailgate on the right side. nsulted Alldata to find that the reverse circuit goes along the roof into the tailgate. I first pulled out the right-side tail lamp assembly only to find the reverse lights weren't there. The reverse lights were more of a challenge. ![]() It's hard to see in the photo, but it's the large wire wrapped in black that goes into the module on the lower-right: I'm only powering one set of brakes, which won't pull any more than 8-9A at max, so it should be sufficient. It's a 40A circuit for a module that powers the lighting circuits, which is more than a little overkill. I ended up putting it all back together and splicing a wire off the power feed to the trailer tow module. I removed all the fuses and took off the top cover, but couldn't find an easy way to tap into one of the open slots. ![]() I mounted the plug so the door opens to the driver's side to avoid clearance issues with the lower valence.įirst up was power, which I originally tried to pull from the fuse box. Here's how I mounted it, no trimming of the factory bracket: I went with M10-32 machine screws and nylock nuts, and an M12 self-tapping screw for additional support at the top. It came with the bracket, plug, and harness, but surprisingly no nuts or bolts to mount the bracket.įirst up was mounting the plug and the bracket. Pollak is the OEM supplier for Ford and GM, and the part I received is identical to what was used for decades on new pickup trucks and SUVs. I've used these in the past and haven't been impressed with the quality. I chose the Pollak 11-898 plug kit for this over the 4-to-7 pin conversion kits that are available from Curt and Reese. Overall it took me about five hours to figure things out as I went, so I figured I'd post some photos for anyone else who may be considering the same. So I added the 7-pin plug to handle both needs, just like I have on other vehicles in the past. I have two trailers that require it for different reasons the boat needs a reverse circuit to deactivate the surge brakes, and the utility trailer needs power for the brakes.
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